Dumb and Dumber Cartoon 3D modeled in Nomad Sculpt

 A few months ago I was learning a new 3D sculpting app called Nomad Sculpt and one of the models I decided to try and create was the cartoon versions of Lloyd and Harry from the Dumb and Dumber cartoon. Here is a look at how they looked in the cartoon.

 

First up was Lloyd Christmas because Ive always been a huge Jim Carrey fan.

And if you have Lloyd you have to have Harry.

 

And of course I had to 3D print them on my resin printer.

 

Ghostbusters Slimer Maquette

This Slimer maquette came from one of Boss Film Studio molds for the Hot Wheels Ecto-1. This piece was to be included for display purposes with the Ecto-1 toy car but the idea was eventually scrapped. This miniature was originally sculpted for Ghostbusters 1 by monster maker Mark Siegel. Years later I came into possession of the mold in which I cast this spud in florescent green with glow in the dark powder to give him that extra spooky look. Matched with a stand that compliments him, you can believe this is a piece that I love having in my collection.


Here you can see an original article showing this exact piece in the bottom left corner.

The splatter for the base was molded in 3D and them printed on an SLA printer. After that a silicone mold was created and the piece was cast to match the slimer.

Stranger Things 2 "Dart" the pollywog

Now that Stranger Things 2 has been released and we have all seen Dart the pollywog, who wouldn't want one. Ive been obsessed with this show since season one and now with the new release of season 2 I just knew I had to have a baby Dart. So break out the sculpy clay. He was sculpted in a matter of hours and then quickly molded as I wanted a quick turn around project. Because after all I have lots of other projects sitting on the back burner.

Here is an early sculpt trying to figure out the shape and size that I wanted.

This is the final sculpt with an early version of how the base plate might look.

I knew that with his base I wanted glowing letters to simulate the Stranger Things on screen logo. To achieve this, I laser cut clear acrylic to shape, painted it black and then engraved the logo. It was then back lit with a red LED.

Here you can see the original sculpt on the completed base  (non lit)

Cast piece on the completed base (lit)

Completed piece. Dart Cast in Dragon Skin silicone.

Ghost in the Shell Geisha

Deadpool Belt Buckle Mounting Instructions

For those of you that have one of my Deadpool belt buckles and would like to know how to attach it to your belt, this post is for you.

Items you will need:

• Todd Cook Designs Deadpool Belt Buckle
• Military Web Belt
• Wood type screws (x2)  - 1/8" wide NO LONGER THAN A 1/2 INCH
• Drill bit 3/32"
• Drill bit 7/16"
• Drill
• Soft cloth
• Black sharpie
• White pencil
• X-acto Knife
• Masking tape
• Todd Cook Designs Deadpool belt buckle mounting template Download Here

Start off by printing the template at full size. If printed at full size the circle should be 4.5 inches.

Once printed out lay your belt on top of the template lining it up between the colored dotted lines that match your belt the best.

For this I removed the buckle that came on the belt to make it easier to install the new belt buckle, but is not necessary to remove it.

Use your x-acto knife to cut out the 2 little black holes on the template.

Now place the buckle on top of the template, lined up with the correct corresponding lines.

Use your making tape to tape the buckle down to the template so you can flip over the whole thing without it moving.

With your white pencil mark the holes on the back of the buckle.

Flip it back over and carefully remove the tape. Try not to rip the template as you will need it again in a moment. Now you should be able to see 2 little white dots on the back of the buckle.

Use your drill and the 3/32" bit and drill a hole all the way through the entire buckle.

On the BACK SIDE of the buckle use your drill with the 7/16" bit and drill through half of the buckle. This is to accommodate for the head of the screw. **DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE BUCKLE**

You can test fit your screws to make sure you can easily insert them.

The next step is to mark the hole on the Deadpool belt buckle. It will be done the same way as the other buckle. Lay it on your template, tape it down and then flip it over on to the soft cloth and mark the holes with the black sharpie.

Not shown: Align the original buckle on to the Deadpool buckle and make sure the marks line up with the holes that were previously drilled.

Here are the measurements of the screws I used. These are the specs of the screws recommended.

**IMPORTANT**
Use your masking tape and tape off your 3/32" drill bit to the length of your screw to ensure you do not drill through the new belt buckle. **DO NOT USE SCREWS LONGER THAN A 1/2 INCH** Also make sure your drill bit is slightly smaller than your screw in diameter.

Tip: If you are worried it might be to big of a bit, test drill and screw the screw into a piece of wood before you drill into the final piece.

Now on to the scary part.

Carefully place the Deadpool buckle on the soft cloth and slowly drill the holes into the back of the buckle, only drilling up to your taped off mark. Be carefully not to scratch the painted buckle.

Now all you have to do is carefully screw the 2 buckles together, and reassemble the belt.

All belts are different, so this is just to give you an idea of how to mount the Deadpool belt buckle. Minor modifications might need to be made to different belts. A similar style of belt can be found here ----> Military Web Belt

Years ago I had purchased an Iron Man mark 3 helmet off of the rpf from a member by the name of finhead. After it sitting in a box and collecting dust I thought it would be a cool idea to let my facebook fans decide how the helmet was to be finished. As it was about a month before Iron Man 3 was released and a few trailers were out that showed a very destroyed version of the helmet. I posted a poll to help me decide, either a clean unused version or the destroyed version from the trailer. Well as you might have guessed the destroyed version won.

Since there is not a lot of build up here, as the helmet was already built, I will just go through the paint up process.

Actually before I could start the paint process I needed to cut the slit into the front of the helmet as seen in the movie. To do this I took a screen grab from the trailer and made an outline of the crack in Adobe Illustrator. I then printed it out and traced the crack onto the helmet.

Next step was to carefully cut out the section with a dremel tool. I made sure to keep the edges kind of rough as if it was really broken it would probably not be a clean break.

Now on to the fun part... the paint up!

This paint job had to be done in several layers because it had to look scratched, chipped and really weathered. The first pieces I started painting were the 2 halves of the face plate. I used a spray paint called Montana Gold. They make all different kinds of colors, but of course I used shiny gold. At the time I had never used this type of paint, but always heard good things about it. As you can see from the photos I was very pleased with how it came out.

Unfortunately because I knew I was doing the destroyed version, I knew this paint couldn't stay shiny for long. I scuffed it up with a light sanding pad to take away some of the shine. The top picture shows the shine of the untouched paint and the bottom shows the scuffed up side next to the shiny side. It still retains a bit of the shine, but not the way it was before.

As for the rest of the helmet it needed a base coat of sliver so that all the scratches and chips would show through the red top coat.

To make the paint look like it was chipped off I cut out shapes that matched parts from the movie trailer out of a vinyl sticker material and placed them on the helmet.

Now it was time for the top coat of Pepper Red automotive paint. This was sprayed through an air gun to get the perfect finish. Once the Pepper Red had fully cured, I used an x-acto knife to carefully peal off the vinyl stickers.

The next step was to tape off the chin so it could be painted to match the face plate.

The final step was to add the scratches and burn marks. This was achieved by using acrylic paint with different shapes and styles of brushes. Here is the final version with the lenses placed in sitting next to my scratch built arc reactor.